Tsumago Juku: Japan’s best-preserved postal town from the Edo period

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This well-preserved historical town named locally as Tsumago Juku, is located on the border of Gifu and Nagano Prefectures in an area of the Kiso Valley. This valley is part of a rural region in the heart of the Japanese Alps.

Surrounded by mountainous terrain and dense forests, this tiny little town remains one of Japan’s best-kept postal towns from the Edo period. This period lasted from 1603-1867 and visiting the town has a surreal feel to it. It feels like time has completely stood still since then.

Unlike many castles we see across Japan, the historical buildings in this small town are very humble and allow us to see how regular civilians lived instead of the royals.

Throughout the town, you’ll find quaint rural farmhouses along cobble streets that just reek of authentic Japanese style. It’s a unique place and one you should not miss during your visit to Gifu.

Country:	Japan
Currency:	Japanese Yen / JPY
Do you need a visa to visit as tourists?	Check here

Don’t forget to get travel insurance to cover you if something bad happens. One company I have personal experience with is Safety Wing. Not everyone needs the same coverage, so make sure you get a personalised quote that suits you and your trip plans.

How to get to Tsumago juku

Location: 2178-10 Azuma, Nagiso, Kiso District, Nagano 399-5302

There are 3 ways to get to the town of Tsumago Juku in Japan. You can either take public transportation, drive yourself, or join a guided tour (more on these below).

If you decide to travel using public transportation, your best friend will be to use Google Maps to get the exact departure times as there are multiple buses and trains you could take depending on where you leave from.

The closest train station to the village is Minami Kiso Station. It takes 10 minutes to reach the village from here by bus or by taxi (call 0264-57-3133). If you choose to walk, expect it to take 40 minutes.

• If you take the train from Tokyo, expect it to take 2 hours and 40 minutes.
• From Osaka, 2 hours and from Nagoya, 1 hour 40 minutes

When travelling by car as a tourist, you’ll first need to make sure you have an international driving permit that allows you to drive in Japan. If you need to rent a car, 2 of my favourite companies to use in Japan are: Rental Cars and Klook Car Rental.

Please note: Cars are not allowed on the main street of Tsumago Juku so make sure you leave your car in the appropriate car parks.

Driving will take approximately this long from the following destinations:

• From Nagoya – 1 hour 30
• From Kyoto – 3 hours
• From Tokyo – 4 hours
• From Osaka – 4 hours

Whichever transport method you choose, I’d recommend ordering an eSIM for your stay to navigate through the region while staying connected.

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Want to add some more traditional Japanese villages to your itinerary? Check these out!

• Saiko Iyashi no Sato Nemba: Traditional Village in Japan
• Gero Onsen Gassho Village: A rural village from the past
• Hida no Sato: A mesmerising traditional village in Gifu Japan
• Shirakawa go
• Kayabuki No Sato: thatched-roof traditional village

Opening Times & Admission

As stated above, if you decide to drive you will need to park in the appropriate car park since cars are forbidden from driving through the main street of Tsumago Juku. the cost for car parking is 300 JPY which is approximately 1.58 GBP.

Opening hours: 8.30 am – 5 pm, 7 days a week

Since this is a real-life town where some people still live and work, it is open all year round. During the winter you can enjoy the history while walking through snow, and during the summer you’ll have the chance to taste the various ice cream flavours being sold on the main street!

Most visitors spend on average half a day here.

Where to stay?

Since the area closes to tourism after 5 pm the only way you could stay longer is by booking local accommodation for the night. Unfortunately, you are unable to stay inside the town, but there are some accommodation options in neighbouring towns and villages. I’ve listed some for you below:

• Nagiso (to the north of the town)
• Magome (to the south of the town)
• Sakashita (to the west of the town)

There are only a few properties in these areas so please try to book in advance as they can fill up quickly during peak season.

Tsumago Juku Guided Japan Tours

If travelling independently seems too daunting, you can’t drive or simply just don’t want to explore on your own, then I’d recommend booking yourself onto a guided tour that visits the village. Not only will this take the stress out of the journey for you, but will allow you to meet other travellers while enjoying the experience.

Be warned though, these tours can be booked quickly so it’s best to book as early as possible to avoid disappointment.

Eihoji, Enakyo, Magomejuku & Tsumago juku Day Tour – from NAGOYA
This tour takes you by bus to 4 different destinations, ending at Tsumago Juku. First, you’ll visit Kokeizan Eihoji Temple found in the countryside, and then you’ll go up to the Enakyo Observatory where you can admire the Ena Gorge below. Next, you’ll head to Magome juku, a neighbouring postal town next to the final stop of Tsumago juku.

Nakasendo Trail Walking Tour – from MATSUMOTO / NAGOYA
This tour is actually a hiking tour. You’ll be picked up in either Matsumoto or Nagoya and driven to the trailhead at one end of the Nakasendo trail. You’ll then walk with your group following your tour guide along the forest and mountain trail until you reach the postal town of Tsumago.

What to expect at Tsumago juku in Japan

Please note: Tsumago juku is a living and inhabited town. This means people actually live here.

With that being said, you should make sure to be respectful during your time visiting the town so as to not disrupt the daily life of the residents. Although technically it is a town rather than just a tourist attraction, this is why there are opening and closing hours for tourists. So, although the daytime may be busy due to visitors, the evenings are quiet enough to let the residents have some normalcy.

Throughout the town, you’ll find everything from homes, temples, shrines, stores and more. The main street runs through the centre and connects everything together into the central location. It’s small enough to walk down and if you’re not stopping at every store you see and taking photos, you could easily walk from one end to the other in 20 minutes.

Some points of interest:

The most popular part of the town is the common street where all the stores are. This is by far the busiest area of the town and is where you can purchase any souvenirs you might want.

If you follow the street down you’ll reach what was the former post road which is much quieter and mostly just has homes along it now. I met a Japanese resident who was 97 outside one of them who invited my friend and me to sit and talk with him in our broken Japanese (fortunately he had great English).

Some other sites I’d recommend visiting during your time in Tsumago juku:

• The Nagiso Museum of History – This will give you much more in-depth information about the town and the surrounding area.

• Tsumago Castle – Once constructed as a defensive measure, there isn’t much left of the castle anymore. However, you will be able to see signs directing you to where it once stood, the ditch where the moat was and give you some information about its history.

• The first inn honjin – The first inn (that still stands today) was the highest status of accommodation for feudal lords and other high-status individuals along the Nakasendo trail.

• Okuya second inn (waki-honjin) – The second inn was an important accommodation for the emperor to stay in all those years ago. It is not in use any more.

• Kabuto Kannon Shrine – A protective shrine that was placed here to protect the Kiso district by General Yoshinaka Kiso. He added the goddess of mercy from his helmet to the shrine so she could watch over the area. This shrine outdated the town itself as it is estimated to have been constructed in 1183.

• Rurisan Kōtoku-ji Temple – Known as the most unusual temple in the region, this temple has a weeping cherry tree in the garden, and white walls – something that is not standard for temples in Japan.

A Brief History of Tsumago Juku

Built in the Edo period between 1603 and 1867, this was one of 69 post towns along the route between modern-day Tokyo (previously named Edo) with Kyoto. This postal town was the 42nd along the trail and is now one of the best preserved of its kind.

It was created along a small trade route that runs through the Kiso Valley and was a bustling mountain town at the time.

Renovations of the town to restore it to its former glory didn’t start until the last century. Around 1970 the first few buildings had been restored and then the Japanese government decided to protect the rest of the town under a rule where no property could be sold, rented or destroyed. It was truly one of the best decisions the government could have made since the town looks amazing today.

Have you been to Tsumago juku yet? What did you like about it?